Note: I am currently not making any of these kits due to a shortage
of spare time. If you need a kit, I understand that
Richard Vaught has them.
HF100R CABINET FOR SALE - I have a repaired cabinet for sale in
San Francisco. It is unfinished at the present time so you can take it
unfinished or we can work something out to apply a kit.
Dissatisfied with what was available for refinishing my Seeburg HF100R
cabinet, I decided to strike out on my own and redo my only Jukebox. I've
invested a significant number of hours creating the forms and jigs used
to make these panels and, since laminate comes in 4' x 8' sheets, I had
enough material left over to make some extras. Since I really don't *need*
extra kits, I decided I'd offer them to others like myself who want a
clean looking and durable finish for their Seeburg. Whether I continue
to make these kits depends on demand and the hassle factor of production
and shipping and really, how fun the overall experience is.
This page is meant to provide a complete and accurate description of this
lamination kit and the procedure for applying it. My goal is to give you
all the information necessary to decide whether you want to use this kit and
instructions on how to apply the laminate.
If you have any questions, please e-mail me at
By the way, did you know your Seeburg appeared in the Jack Lemmon film
The material I chose for the white section was pretty much the hands-down
winner whereas the burl pattern was a tougher choice. It came down to
two canidates - one with a more varied pattern and the other with a more
orange/less dark brown color. I went with the more orange color since
I liked the overall effect better. The contact paper I had bought a couple
years ago was much too dark.
Each kit includes 15 panels of pre-cut laminate and features:
- Made from durable low sheen laminate material
- precision router-cut from router-cut template
- pre-drilled holes
- pre-bent lower section
- Easy installation
- Complete instructions
- "Tech Support" via e-mail
This kit is made from two different brands of laminate selected from
several manufacturers. Both are low-sheen finish. I will not claim an
exact match and I don't believe one exists. These comparison scans give
an idea of what's available and how they compare to the original.
Here is an example of an unrestored original finish as compared to the
patterns of the material I've chosen.
Note that if you have a specific pattern that you prefer, I would consider
making some special arrangements to produce a kit for you.
Since I've only personally fit one of these kits to a cabinet, I cannot
say conclusively that all cabinets are the same and that the fit will
be perfect. It was for mine but the templates were made from mine.
If yours and mine are identical, the fit will be excellent. Since all
edges are not visible, there is a bit of room for variation. Use the
following measurements to validate that your cabinet is at least close
to mine. Since we can't do a complete comparison over the internet,
I do offer a money back guarantee. With over 10 shipped, I have yet to
hear of any problems with the fit.
Free Lamination Offer
I have received a number of requests for kits for other Seeburg jukeboxes
but unfortunately, I don't happen to have one of each to make templates
from. So, I am offering free labor to refinish any of the other 50's
Seeburg machines. You pay for shipping to and from my place and materials
and I will create templates, cut and apply the material to your cabinet.
I live in San Francisco - zip code 94122 - in case you want to calculate
shipping costs. This offer or course is only available to the first
of each model Jukebox.
If you have another 50's Seeburg and would like to work with me to restore
your cabinet and help provide the lamination option to others please contact
Before you begin the application CHECK THE FIT ON ALL PANELS and
decide if they fit to your satisfaction. If they do not, let me know
and we can try to correct the problem or workout a return. It is very
important that you are satisfied with this product and I consider every
customer's restoration a reflection on the product and support I offer.
If you find that there is a lot of variation on the bend as compared to
your box, use a hair dryer to heat the corner then apply pressure
to the curved section until it cools.
Your primary challenge when applying the panels in this kit is in aligning
each panel while the glue is extremely tacky. There will most-likely
be some amount of filing required to make the panels fit snugly where
they meet. The following tools should be all you need when it comes to
applying this kit to your cabinet:
Also make sure that you have sufficient table space within proximity of your
cabinet since you will want to pick things up and set them down while holding
a sticky panel up. And, more than anything make sure you have patience.
- Contact cement
- Glue brush
- Wax paper
- Towel or blanket
- Sanding block
- Paper Towels
- Hair Dryer
- Wide clamp
- Off-white paint
Keep in mind: contact cement is *very* tacky and you should figure
that you get only one chance to align the pieces. There is no sliding
them into place before the glue sets. Follow the manufacturer's directions
and apply the contact cement to the laminate panel and the matching section
of the cabinet. Typically, you wait 15 minutes for the glue to set before
glueing the panel to the cabinet.
Once the glue has set, align the sticky panel, by strategicaly placing
2 or 3 pieces of contact paper between the cabinet and the panel.
Align the panel, keeping in mind which edges are actually visible
and which can be filed later. It's important to favor the visible edges.
None of the holes are visible so ignore the alignment on these.
Anchor one side of the panel with clamps then peel up the other side
of the panel and remove one piece of the wax paper. Slowly "roll" that
section of the panel to the cabinet to glue it in place. Then repeat this
step to apply the rest of the panel. Remember to roll the laminate on
rather than trying to stick it on flat since this can cause air bubbles
that are *very* hard to get out. Make sure to rub every part of the panel
firmly to make sure that all parts of the panel are glued tight. You need
to apply 75 pounds of pressure to create a strong bond.
Note: Concentrate on one panel at a time and practice the entire
application without glue to make sure that you know the steps and have
everything you need close by. Since the burl pattern is recessed,
you will want to cut your wax paper to fit. You can use the pattern
itself as a template and simply cut that one edge with an x-acto knife.
It's good to allow the other edges of the wax paper to overlap in case they
move a bit but not so much that they want to slide off.
The alignment gets a little tricky for the rounded corner. I found it
best to use just 2 pieces of wax paper for this panel and work from the
rounded area towards the top. In general, it's best to start with the
most visible section because if it does end up misaligned, you have less
to take up.
Keep solvent on-hand in case you do need to take up a section that's
misaligned and follow the glue manufacturer's instructions. Be carefull
not to yank or jam tools against the laminate while removing it since
the laminate material is very brittle. With care, patience and dry run
practice, you should not have to pull up any laminate.
The entire application will take from 2 - 3 hours figuring that you have at
least 45 minutes of wait time for the glue to set.
Step by step instructions:
There you have it! Your Seeburg jukebox cabinet is now restored to
"better than new" condition with a much more durable finish than before.
- Remove all parts from the cabinet including the grill cloth if you
intend to replace it.
- Fill any chips in the area to be covered or deep cuts in the
corners to provide a solid backing for the laminate. Note that this
is particularly important for the rounded lower front corners where the
laminate is curved and can easy take a boot or furniture bump.
- Paint and refinish the cabinet to your liking (the sections where
laminate will not be applied).
- Finish the areas where laminate will be applied to the glue
manufacturer's specifications - typicaly a slightly sanded finish.
Also use an off-white color to paint the lip where the burl and white
sections meet. If you're also painting the cashbox and speaker grills,
you can do this at the same time. I used an airbrush but a brush will
- Remove all loose material such as sawdust from any surface where
laminate will be applied.
- Tilt jukebox cabinet onto one side resting it on a thick towel or
blanket to avoid scratches.
- Cut wax paper to fit panels with about 1/2" overlap. Too much
overlap and they will slide off the cabinet while you're trying to
apply the panel. For the inside cut on the burl panel, cut this
edge flush so you can get the panel right up against the lip edge.
Cut the speaker hole out so you can fit your clamps in the speaker
hole. What you want to end up with is two pieces for each panel
so you can stick half of each panel down while the other is clamped
- Apply contact cement to the back of the white and burl panels and
to the correspoding sections on the cabinet.
- Wait 15-20 minutes for the glue to set.
- Position wax paper over the white panel's section.
- Align the white panel favoring the visible edges of the cashbox
and lip separating the white panel from the burl panel and clamp
through the speaker hole.
- Peel up the edge nearest the cashbox, pull the wax paper out from
just that area and roll the panel back to the cabinet apllying pressure
from the inside to the outside edges.
- Remove the clamps, peel up the panel, remove then roll it back down
in the same manner as the first section.
- Rub the entire section down slowly with a significant amount of
pressure. The contact cement I used said 75lbs so bear into it.
Be careful, the edges are sharp!
- Lay the wax paper for the burl panel.
- Align the burl panel favoring the visible edges on the lower
"L" shaped section and clamp at the top and close the middle.
- Peel back the "L" shaped section, remove the wax paper and roll the
laminate in place. In this case, roll from top to bottom favoring
edge that meets the lip between the white section. Then, roll
from to back to front finally sticking the rounded corner in place.
- Remove the clamps from the top section of the burl panel and roll it
down. Then, go over the entire panel pressing the material to the
cabinet to ensure the bond.
In doing the second side, I found that I needed to coax the
shape of the rounded edge a bit with a little heat from a hair dryer
and a clamp. Be sure not to place too much pressure on the curve
itself. You'll notice I placed the block just under the curve.
- Check fit and file edges as necessary. Pay particular attention
to edges along the lower part of the burl patterned piece as there
are other pieces that need to meet that piece flush. It's easiest
if you do this before flipping the cabinet over. Note that filing
should be done in smooth, fairly light strokes in a direction
that will not peel the material off. A wider file will also help
avoid gauging. Be careful not to file too much material off which
could leave a gap between the piece that needs to form a cap.
- Attach the lower chrome trim and any of the lower pieces you may
have removed so that you will not have to flip the cabinet again.
It's time to start treating this cabinet like it's a fine piece of
furniture which it is now becoming!
- Flip cabinet onto other side and repeat steps 8 through 20.
- Stand cabinet upright.
- By now, you're a laminate application pro so you will have no problem
with the lower front section and cashbox door. Just apply the glue,
wait 15 minutes and begin the application. I found that the wax
paper method wasn't needed for the cap pieces for the "L" section
but was for the 4 panels.
- Cleanup edge of "L" section with a light filing. File at a slight
angle to avoid hitting the side panel.
- Give the entire cabinet a once-over and make sure that all edges are
filed flush. Also cleanup any stray glue that you find. This stuff
comes right up with a paper towel and some of the contact cement
- Attach new grill cloth and rebuild jukebox.
- Attach pieces to title panel cradle on both sides. I chose to not glue
these on myself since I wanted to keep some piece of the original burl
available for comparison of materials that may become available at a
later time. Just loosen the 4 screws on the cradle, slide the new panel
in and tighten the screws.
Since I am not a business, I don't maintain a large amount of stock
and order material as needed. Each order of material allows me to
create 3 kits so depending on when you catch me, I may have a kit
ready to ship, need to make it from material I already have, or have to go
ahead and order the material which can add a week. I work full-time
and make these kits in my spare time in my garage during hours where I
don't feel I'm disrupting the neighbors - which is typically weekends.
So, it can take a few days or a few weeks depending on the situation.
I will do everything I can to fill your order promptly and will always
try to make sure you know when to expect it.
The price of each kit is $210. Use the following calculator to figure
out the cost of shipping to your zip code. If you want extra services
added onto the shipping it is your responsibility to request and pay for
them. For US orders, UPS can't be beat. With UPS shipping you get:
- Lower cost than with USPS
- Insurance for $210
- Online tracking
- Fast turnaround since I can fill in the order online and drop it
off at the UPS drop off 4 blocks from my house any weekday.
- Three delivery attempts
Enter your zip code to calculate shipping costs or,
Choose the "Ship outside US" for international orders.
* enter 6 pounds for the weight
You can pay by PayPal (to firstname.lastname@example.org), check, cashier's
check or money order. If you pay by check, I will ship once the check
Your kit will be packed in a custom ordered box that is reinforced with
strips of cardboard to protect against crushing the rounded edges of
the burl patterned pieces. I take as much care in packing as I do with
creating the kits.
My return policy is very straightforward - you can return the kit for
any reason within 30 days of receipt. If you have damaged any piece of
the kit on installation, it is basically yours although I will sell
you replacement pieces if needed. I am always available for questions
Note: I am currently not making any of these kits due to a shortage
of spare time.
To order your kit, just send mail to
to check availability.